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Revolutionary Road Trip: Southern Champlain Valley

  • Writer: Timothy Dusablon
    Timothy Dusablon
  • Jun 7
  • 10 min read

In honor of the 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States, I have created several “Revolutionary Road Trips” in the Champlain Valley and the surrounding areas. These road trips are designed to be done in one day, and to give you time to explore and enjoy the sites. This road trip focuses on the Southern Champlain Valley.


You may think you need to go to Boston, New York City, New Jersey or Philadelphia to experience the important sites of the Revolutionary War. With all due respect to those locations, if you live or visit in the Champlain Valley, there are PLENTY of sites to keep you on the road and entertained walking in the pathway of one of the most critical theaters in the Revolutionary War.


In the words of Rene Descartes: “Traveling is almost like talking with men of other centuries." With this in mind, these Revolutionary Road Trips are the perfect excuse to get out and experience the places that greatly influenced our country’s founding 250 years ago. See for yourself where our history took place!


Stop 1: Mount Independence - Orwell, VT


The main exhibit at Mount Independence in Orwell, VT.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The main exhibit at Mount Independence in Orwell, VT. Photo from Tim Dusablon

Mount Independence is often called the least disturbed Revolutionary War site in existence. In direct contrast to the majestically rebuilt Fort Ticonderoga across the lake, the works on Mount Independence have been left undisturbed. In fact, you could argue that Mount Independence was more vital to the American cause in 1776 and 1777. Fort Ticonderoga was originally built by the French and was oriented to defend against an attack from the south. The Americans had to worry about an invasion from the north. Several stone foundations still exist from blockhouses, a hospital, batteries, and other defensive works. In addition, a bridge was built to connect Ticonderoga to Mount Independence. Caissons were built on the frozen lake during the winter months and sunk to the bottom. There are some logs from the caissons on display in the museum. There was also a large star fort at the top of the mount.


The path along the Baldwin Trail at Mount Independence in Orwell, VT.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The path along the Baldwin Trail at Mount Independence in Orwell, VT. Photo from Tim Dusablon

During the summer and fall months of 1776, there were 12,000 soldiers and camp followers stationed between Mount Independence and Fort Ticonderoga. This made Orwell, Vermont (in combination with Ticonderoga, NY) the 4th biggest population center in 1776, only behind Boston, New York, and Philadelphia.


The mount was originally called Rattlesnake Hill, but was renamed Mount Independence after a copy of the Declaration of Independence was read aloud to the forces there. There is a beautiful museum on site, as well as miles of trails. You will need to start at the museum and pay admission, as well as grab a map. If you plan on exploring some of the locations on the far end of the parking lot, you will want to dress and prepare accordingly. The Baldwin Trail is ADA accessible, but some of the other trails have more moderate levels of difficulty. If you are physically able, I would recommend at least the fairly easy Baldwin trail, about 1.6 miles, which includes the hospital, a great overlook to Fort Ticonderoga, and the southern defenses.


The southern battery at Mount Independence.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The southern battery at Mount Independence. Photo from Tim Dusablon

The Vermont State Historical Sites was kind enough to share the following statement regarding the celebrations related to the 250th anniversary of America’s founding at Mount Independence:


“Mount Independence State Historic Site is hosting nine special events related to the 250th of not just the Untied States, but of Mount Independence as a significant military instillation. Historians will explore the world of Philip Schuyler, Benedict Arnold, and John Trumbull. Kids are invited to take part in a simulated archeological dig. Visitors of all ages can hike into history on a guided hick around the mount or enjoy visiting with soldiers and civilians encamped at the site or learn about the significance of the Declaration of Independence or celebrate the 250th of Mount Independence’s name day, July 25, 1776, with music, soldiers, guided walks, and period demonstrations.


Mount Independence state Historic Site is one of the nation’s most significant Revolutionary War sites, offering six miles of trails along the archaeological remains of the fortification. Jointly owned and managed by the State of Vermont’s Division for Historic Preservation and the Fort Ticonderoga Association, Mount Independence documents the critical efforts to defend northern New York, New England, and the cause of American liberty. Exhibits in the museum showcase a plethora of archeological finds from the site itself from 1776 to 1777.”


Stop 2: Larabee’s Point - Shoreham, VT


Larrabee's Point in Shoreham, VT.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
Larrabee's Point in Shoreham, VT. Photo from Tim Dusablon

Just to the north of Larabee’s Point is where Benedict Arnold, Ethan Allen, and 83 Green Mountain Boys gathered before capturing the famed fort in America’s first largescale victory. The actual spot, Hand’s Cove, is private property. The cable ferry across the lake is one of the oldest continual crossings in the country.


Stop 3: Moore’s Mill and Carleton’s Raid - East Shoreham, VT


Contrary to popular belief, not all was quiet in the Champlain Valley after the Battle of Saratoga. In 1778, a British force of almost 500 sailed south on Lake Champlain on a raiding mission. They were led by Major Christopher Carleton, Guy Carleton’s nephew. Unlike other British military leaders, Christopher had lived with the Haudenosaunee First Nations where he learned their language and even had piercings and tattoos out of respect. This raiding force first targeted the Otter Creek Valley, terrorizing Vergennes, Weybridge, Middlebury, and Monkton. Moving south to Button Bay, they targeted Moore’s Mill, on a remote site just south of the Shoreham Green. Moore’s Mill was a popular Green Mountain Boys hangout. It was here near Moore’s Mill where militia caught up with the raiding party. A 20 minute skirmish took place, before the raiders retreated back to Lake Champlain.


Stop 4: Hubbardton Battlefield - Hubbardton, VT


The beautiful Hubbardton Battlefield in Hubbardton, VT.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The beautiful Hubbardton Battlefield in Hubbardton, VT. Photo from Tim Dusablon

The Hubbardton Battlefield has been aptly described as hauntingly beautiful. You get a wonderful view of the Green Mountains and the Taconic Mountains. A ferocious battle took place here that has largely been misunderstood. It was the day after the American evacuation from Ticonderoga and Mount Independence in 1777, while fleeing Burgoyne’s forces. Most of the American soldiers continued down the road in a hurry to Castleton. The Green Mountain Boys under Seth Warner, along with New Hampshire and Massachusetts regiments camped on this site to act as a rear guard.


Early in the morning when they were having breakfast, they heard shots fired in the distance from Saddle Hill. The Americans set up their initial line at Sucker Brook, then retreated back to the current battlefield site. The fighting was fierce, with gun smoke so thick it was difficult to see directly in front of them. Warner and the Americans held their own against Simon Fraser’s forces. The tide turned when the German forces arrived under General Rediesel and caused the Americans to retreat back to Castleton. This was a British victory on paper. However, with this being a rear guard action, it was never designed to be an American victory. It was simply meant to delay. When viewed from that perspective, the Battle of Hubbardton was a resounding military success that actually saved the forces to fight another day at Saratoga. There is a very nice trail around the site, including the basement of the Sellick home, and an inside exhibit area.


The view of the battlefield from the cellar hole in Hubbardton, VT.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The view of the battlefield from the cellar hole in Hubbardton, VT. Photo from Tim Dusablon

The Vermont State Historical Sites was kind enough to share the following statement regarding the celebrations related to the 250th anniversary of America’s founding at the Hubbardton Battlefield:


“Hubbardton Battlefield State Historic Site is hosting a number of special events and talks this season. An illustrated presentation about Hubbardton in the weeks before the battle and the effects on the areas’ population following the battle really sets the scene for the later in the summer when the site hosts the annual Battle of Hubbardton Revolutionary War Encampment July 11 and 12. A special tour in August will take visitors to East Hubbardton Cemetery where visitors will learn about the lives of Hubbardton’s early settlers.”


Stop 5: Fort Warren - Castleton, VT


After the threat of raids during the Revolutionary War, the Green Mountain Boys had encouraged all settlers north of Rutland to move south. Those who stayed north were told they were on their own. There was a series of forts set up along a line from Rutland over to the Connecticut River. Fort Warren was one of those sites, built in 1778 along with the other works. It was a stockade fort and protected the nearby settlers.


Stop 6: Site of Arnold/Allen Clash - Castleton, VT


A plaque on the site believed to be where Arnold and Allen met before the capture of Ticonderoga.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
A plaque on the site believed to be where Arnold and Allen met before the capture of Ticonderoga. Photo from Tim Dusablon

It was at a tavern on this location that Benedict Arnold and Ethan Allen clashed over who would lead the capture of Fort Ticonderoga. Or was it? There is some debate over whether or not the clash happened here, or further along on the way to Shoreham. The debate over who was in charge stemmed from a lack of coordination among the colonies at this very early stage of the conflict. The Massachusetts Committee of Safety had commissioned Benedict Arnold to lead a force to capture Fort Ticonderoga. However, Connecticut had hired the Green Mountain Boys to also capture Fort Ticonderoga. A plaque here marks the event that may have taken place here. Out of this meeting, an uneasy truce was reached, and the two agreed upon joint command.


Stop 7: Skenesborough Museum - Whitehall, NY


A view of Whitehall, NY and the Champlain Canal, with Skene Manor in the background.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
A view of Whitehall, NY and the Champlain Canal, with Skene Manor in the background. Photo from Tim Dusablon

Before it was known as Whitehall, the town at the southern tip of Lake Champlain was known as Skenesborough, after the British officer who settled here after the French and Indian War, Philip Skene. He built a thriving settlement here that was eventually taken over by American forces during the capture of Fort Ticonderoga. The museum is in a formal canal building and has exhibits showcasing the impressive history of the town. Nearby on the green are several monuments honoring “The Birthplace of the United States Navy”. Although that claim comes with controversy by those who, correctly, state the actions at Skenesborough were Army rather than Navy. That said, the difference between the two was minimal at this time in our history. Regardless of semantics, there’s no denying the first United States warship, captured from Skene’s estate and renamed the Liberty, came from Whitehall.


Stop 8: Skenesborough Shipyard - Whitehall, NY


The southern tip of Lake Champlain at Whitehall, NY.  At the base of this hill is believed to be where Philip Skene's estate was where Arnold constructed his naval fleet.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
The southern tip of Lake Champlain at Whitehall, NY. At the base of this hill is believed to be where Philip Skene's estate was where Arnold constructed his naval fleet. Photo from Tim Dusablon

Here at this pull off, you get a great view of the hill. At the base of this hill is where Skene’s estate was located. It was here that Benedict Arnold constructed his naval fleet that countered the British at the Battle of Valcour Island in 1776. Building this fleet was an incredible feat, given his lack of supplies and experienced ship builders. In 1777, some of the Americans fled down Lake Champlain, with the British vessels in hot pursuit. As they were departing the vessels, they were under fire. They set fire to Skene’s old estate and fled further south.


Stop 9: Fort Ann Battlefield - Fort Ann, NY


An historical marker in Fort Ann alluding to the Battle of Fort Anne in 1777.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
An historical marker in Fort Ann alluding to the Battle of Fort Anne in 1777. Photo from Tim Dusablon

It was just north of this pull off that the Battle of Fort Anne occurred. A force of about 500 American forces held here as a rear guard, so the sick, wounded, and camp followers could continue down to Fort Edward. A British force encountered the Americans, and a confusing battle took place in the thick wilderness. The Americans all but had the British force surrounded, but then came the sound of war whoops, which indicated First Nations Warriors, causing the American force to flee. The war whoops actually came from one lone British officer who was able to trick the Americans into fleeing and saving the British force. Some argue that this rather small skirmish actually may have had a larger impact. Exaggerated numbers on the size of the American force at this battle may have convinced Burgoyne to take the Wood Creek route to the Hudson instead of the Lake George route. American forces destroyed bridges and felled trees along the narrow Wood Creek that slowed Burgoyne’s advance to a crawl. This allowed the Americans time to regroup at Saratoga. It was a mis-step from Burgoyne that cost him, and it may have been influenced by this battle.


Stop 10: Jane McCrea Gravesite - Fort Edward, NY


Jane McCrea's headstone at the Union Cemetery in Fort Edward, NY.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
Jane McCrea's headstone at the Union Cemetery in Fort Edward, NY. Photo from Tim Dusablon

This is the third and final grave site that Jane McCrea’s body would be interred. Her tragic story is woven into the fabric of our nation’s founding. Jane lived nearby on the outskirts of Fort Edward. She was engaged to a loyalist soldier fighting in Burgoyne’s force. She was captured by First Nations Warriors allied with the British. What happened next is up for some debate, as it becomes hard to separate fact from fiction. There appeared to be a dispute over who’s prisoner she was amongst the natives, and in the confusion she was struck dead and scalped. She was not the only victim of the native raids in the area however. Her tragedy became the ultimate propaganda tool for the American forces, and soon many who had been neutral in the conflict flocked to the side of the American forces. Her remains are incomplete, as souvenir hunters have taken parts of her remains. Buried next to her is Duncan Campbell, a member of the Scottish Highlanders who lost his life shortly after the Battle of Carillon in 1758. His famous ghost story is one of the most infamous legends of the Champlain Valley.


Stop 11: Fort Edward - Fort Edward, NY


Although the fort is long gone, the fort house was built with timbers from the old structure. Nearby remnants of the dry moat are still visible. Fort Edward was built here in 1755 at the onset of the French and Indian War. This was the beginning of the ancient portage from the Hudson River over to Lake George along the Great Warpath. At the old fort house, Solomon Northrup, a freeborn African American, lived for years and worked on the Champlain Canal. During a stint as a traveling musician, he was captured in Washington, D.C., drugged, and forced into slavery. This despite being a free man. He spent “Twelve Years a Slave,” the title of his famous memoirs.


Stop 12: Fort George - Lake George Village, NY


A view from Fort William Henry of French and Indian War fame looking out on Lake George.  Fort George was built after Fort William Henry was destroyed just to the east.  Photo from Tim Dusablon
A view from Fort William Henry of French and Indian War fame looking out on Lake George. Fort George was built after Fort William Henry was destroyed just to the east. Photo from Tim Dusablon

Fort George was begun in 1759 at the end of the French and Indian War, and was never completed. American forces captured Fort George shortly after Ticonderoga. Eventually, Fort George became the hospital for the Northern Army, where those sick with smallpox were isolated. In 2026, several Pennsylvania soldiers were reinterred near the Lake George Battlefield. In 1775, Henry Knox had a chance encounter with a charming British officer, who he recalled having a delightful conversation with, sharing their love of plays and books. That British officer was none other than John Andre, the future head of North American intelligence and the architect of Benedict Arnold’s eventual betrayal. During Brown’s Raid, there was a brief naval skirmish at Diamond Island, not far away. Be sure to check out Fort William Henry while here. Although the fort was destroyed long before the American Revolution, the “massacre” that happened here in 1757 had ripple effects that were felt into the Revolutionary War.

 
 
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